Christkindl Spirit

Union County festival offers the experience of an authentic German Christmas market.

Story and photos by Liam Migdail

A piercing cold settles into the small town of Mifflinburg as a light flurry begins to coat the roofs and sidewalks. But that does little to deter the throngs of visitors who are reveling in the festive scene that has developed along the town’s Main Street on a mid-December afternoon.

Several blocks of the street have been transformed into something out of the fairy tale—decked out with wooden Christmas stars and trees. Even the trash cans are color-coordinated to match the holiday décor. The inviting aroma of German delicacies—from soup and sauerbraten to strudel and stollen—wafts through the air as vendors sell tasty treats and handcrafted gifts from ornately decorated stalls. Traditional Christmas music plays in the background, blending with the chatter of the crowd. Visitors warm up with hot chocolate or glühwein, a spiced German wine served hot.

At the center of it all is a 15-foot, rotating wooden pyramid supporting an intricate, three-story carving of the nativity. The Christmas pyramid—or weihnachtspyramide—is a common sight at the traditional, open-air, Christmas markets found throughout Germany and Austria. The one at Mifflinburg’s Christkindl is one of the many touches that make the Union County recreation famous for staying true to the European originals.
“They say this is probably the most authentic in the states,” says Jim Lengle, as he and his wife, Diane, get a close-up look at the weihnachtspyramide. “And some of the people I’ve talked to say it’s even better than some of the Christmas markets in Europe.”

At the center of it all is a 15-foot, rotating wooden pyramid supporting an intricate, three-story carving of the nativity. The Christmas pyramid—or weihnachtspyramide—is a common sight at the traditional, open-air, Christmas markets found throughout Germany and Austria. The one at Mifflinburg’s Christkindl is one of the many touches that make the Union County recreation famous for staying true to the European originals.
“They say this is probably the most authentic in the states,” says Jim Lengle, as he and his wife, Diane, get a close-up look at the weihnachtspyramide. “And some of the people I’ve talked to say it’s even better than some of the Christmas markets in Europe.”

The Lengles have made a trip to the market—held annually the second Thursday through Saturday of December—a yearly tradition. “There’s always something new every year,” Diane says. “And it’s always cold,” Jim adds.

Longtime market coordinator Joannah Skucek said attention to detail and community spirit are what give the Mifflinburg Christkindl its authenticity.

“We started it right,” she said. “We wanted to be as genuine to the German market as possible.”

The tradition of the Christkindl market dates back more than 700 years in Europe, to when merchants would gather outside of churches around Christmas to take advantage of the extra foot traffic. Over time, the markets became more organized and developed into annual community events.

Skucek and her late husband, Rudi, started the tradition in Mifflinburg 30 years ago, when they moved back to Joannah’s hometown after living 20 years in Germany. The Mifflinburg community was searching for a way to celebrate its German heritage and Rudi, a native of Austria, went to work selling the town on an authentic Christmas market.

“It took two years to convince people that such an event was even possible,” Skucek said. “Who’s going to come to an outdoor market in the middle of December and freeze to death?”

In the time since, the Mifflinburg community has built its own Christkindl into a destination in its own right while also embracing the German traditions.

Local craftsmen build German-style decorations. Community groups and local businesses have learned to make authentic German foods to sell at the market. Local school students give holiday performances. Visitors bring Christmas cards to be sent from the Mifflinburg post office and stamped with commemorative cancellation stamp designed each year. Market vendors sell the traditional gifts found at the markets in Germany and Austria—schwibbögen (hand-carved candle arches), nussknacker (nutcrackers), räuchermann (wooden figurines used as incense burners). There’s even a local woman who makes and sells zwetschgenmännla, figurines made from prunes and walnuts.

“There’s no company that comes in and puts it on,” Skucek said. “We do it ourselves. Everybody is pitching in.”

Green Ridge Country Market in Mifflinburg—owned by Pennsylvania Farm Bureau members Gary and Cathy Smith—learned how to make traditional, German Christmas cookies to sell at its market stand. It took some time to get the recipes just right, said Katrina Yoder (the Smiths’ daughter), as she helped customers shopping for treats with names like lebkuchen, pfeffernüsse, springerle and stollen. But she said, it was well worth it as market goers have been excited to find the traditional favorites.

“There are a lot of people who are looking for authenticity,” Yoder said.
A few blocks from the market at Gable House Bakery, owner Nikki Walter was busy preparing desserts for her market stand. Growing up in Mifflinburg, Christkindl has always been a big part of her holiday tradition.

“It’s always kind of a magical thing,” said Walter, a Farm Bureau member. “I grew up going to the market and it’s a lot of nostalgia but also small-town pride. It’s just cool to be a part of something that I’ve always enjoyed.”

Shoppers take in the sights at Mifflinburg Christkindl. In the background is the 15-foot weihnachtspyramide, a traditional German Christmas pyramid at the center of many Christkindl markets.

Scenes from Mifflinburg Christkindl. From top to bottom: Zwetschgenmännla, German prune figures, are popular souvenirs at traditional Christkindl markets throughout Germany and Austria. These, at Mifflinburg’s market, are made by a local resident; Hilby the Skinny German Juggle Boy performs for visitors; An elaborate display of Christmas gifts in a gift stand; Joe D’Aiuto of Sandcastle Winery offers shoppers a taste of glühwein, a spiced, holiday wine that’s served hot.